Keetmanshoop, Seeheim, Fish River Canyon, Aussenkehr, Violsdrift
I arrived in Windhoek not exactly sure what to expect. It was very clean, organised and although its a nice place it was somewhat bland. I won a pub quiz at the hostel and did meet some interesting people so it was a good time but with South Africa so close I was anxious to get going again.
Downtown Windhoek
I got the bike fixed and she arrived again looking brand new. It nice to have her clean and beautiful again but it attracts more attention from the locals.
I got the bus down to Keetmanshoop and made the short ride to Seeheim, a hotel in the middle of nowhere. It was very nice but not so friendly. All the owner asked me was why I didn't speak Afrikaans. I said I'm from New Zealand and that was acceptable but there wasn't much after that.
They had a Gemsbok in the grounds so it was good to see one up close. I have seen them on a dinner plate a few times as well and they do taste as good as they look.
Then it was onto Fish River Canyon. I arrived late in the afternoon and I wasn't really sure if I wanted to bike the extra 10k each way to see it. Philip and Fran were there too so we had a beer and they convinced me to ride to the canyon in the morning. I didn't know what to expect but it was incredible. I sat for an hour watching the sun come up and then began what would be a long day to Aussenkehr.
A break in the shade
The late start after visiting Fish River Canyon meant that I would be biking well into the afternoon to get to Aussenkehr. Normally this wouldn't be a problem but like every day since Walvis Bay there was a strong headwind and by late in the afternoon it was getting ridiculous.
Downwind the bike acts like a sail but into the wind its really hard work. I spent 3 hours doing 8km/hour and eventually I just stopped looking at the speed. The wind is one of the factors that you cant change but after a few days into the wind it became really frustrating. Cape Town was so close and all I wanted was a nice easy week, wind at my back and sunshine to get there. I knew that this wasn't going to happen and like the rest of Africa getting to Cape Town wasn't going to be easy.
The good thing was the scenery was stunning. There were animals, long straights, climbs, twisty descents, sections of desert and there was virtually no one on the road. This 10 hour/150km day was the best ride I had in Namibia. When I was getting close to Aussenkehr the sun was going down with the mountains on one side, the desert on the other. It was a really tough day but near the end there was no place I would rather have been or nothing I would rather have been doing than being out there on the bike.
They take their Jager seriously in Namibia
The final day in Namibia was another windy affair but it was a short day to get to the border and into South Africa and the beginning of the end.
So Namibia. I totally under estimated how difficult it would be. I arrived thinking that it would be flat, fast and easy but it was anything but. The roads, heat, wind, desert, the distance between towns and its size made it one of the toughest countries I have gone through. Its not the kind of place where you turn up at the airport with a bike and think you can just cruise around the country.
Namibia is incredibly beautiful and from North to South the people were so friendly and helpful. The camping is great, the food good, there are animals everywhere and I got to live the dream and see Elephants in the wild. The great thing about it was that as a country it works. Its safe, organised, clean, and so very easy to be a tourist there. Its no more challenging than a holiday in New Zealand.
Sorry Kenya but you have been moved to Number 2. Namibia is my favourite country in Africa.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: only a member of this blog may post a comment.