Vioolsdrift - Cape Town - 10 days 655 kms

Noordsrift, Springbok, Garies, Bitterfontein, Strandfontein, Lamberts Bay, Dwaserkerbos, Yzerfontein and Cape Town

I crossed the border into South Africa with Philip and Fran. After some comedy at customs where they wanted to know who was driving the car we camped at a lodge for the evening.

Over some beers and terrible Pizza we talked about the end. They shared similar reservations to what I did. What was it going to be like to finish? How would going back to normal life be?

I had tried not to think about the end but since leaving Windhoek it was always there at the back of my mind. The life that I had become so accustomed to and the life that I loved was going to come to an end. The other side of it was that I could look forward to doing normal things again. Simple things like cooking, going to the fridge when you are hungry and sleeping in a bed none of which I had done in a long time. I also thought I would have some pretty good stories to tell so there was something to look forward to.

Not far now

Besides all the thought of the end there was still South Africa to get across and one final set of mountains to climb. Its always exciting getting to a new country because you really have no idea how it works until you spend a bit of time there.

After this photo Philip and Fran speed ahead. They carry less gear than I do so I will say that's why they were faster. Unfortunately we didn't catch up again in the next town Springbok so it was the last time I would see them. They had a date to get to Cape Town but I was going to take my time and take it a little bit easy.

Its a little bit like New Zealand

After a tough day with hills and wind I decided to stay in Springbok and watch the cricket final. That didn't turn out so well but it was good to have some time off and rest up a little.

The large hills and strong headwinds continued for the next few days. I was becoming used to the wind so it didn't bother me too much. It just made it a lot slower that I had hoped.

I wasn't really sure what South Africa was going to be like but I was pleasantly surprised. Everyone was incredibly friendly and the security situation that I was a little bit worried about wasn't a problem. Culturally I found South Africa similar to New Zealand. It was Easter so people were heading to the beach. They like Cricket, Rugby and to BBQ or Braai as its called here. They do take the BBQ to a whole new level though. Its a national obsession and every camping spot has a place for you to Braai. There is a TV show devoted to it - Ultimate Braai Master and I do have to admit they do the BBQ better than we do in New Zealand.

South Africans love white cars and especially the white bakkie. I was told that white is best because it doesn't fade in the sun. I can relate as my car has turned a slight shade of pink from the sun. I would estimate from Namibia to Cape Town that 35% of all cars on the road would be a white bakkie and Toyota Hilux has been the top selling car in the country for decades. That doesn't mean that they drive well. Mostly they did give me plenty of room and it was better than other places in Africa but drink-driving here is still quite popular.

Its really quite nice on the coast

Strandfontein and the beach

I spent most of Easter at Lamberts Bay and had a fantastic time.
My neighbours were incredibly friendly and just after I had setup the tent on the first evening I had one of the families give me a plate of dinner while cooking outside the tent. This it lead to a number of brandy and cokes and then to a "disco". It was in the middle of nowhere at a pub and it was a little bit different. 
There would be regular music then it would stop and a "disco" waltz would start. It then became like something out of Strictly Ballroom and incredible dancing was taking place everywhere. Then back to normal again. I did give the waltz ago but I was hopeless.

The second evening I was invited for dinner with the other neighbours. There some excellent wine, great conversation and some of the best steak I have eaten - it was cooked on Braai of course. Thanks Shane & Diff and your families/fiends for a fantastic weekend - Nadia too for showing me some of Cape Town.

The first sight of Table Mountain

I left Lamberts Bay on what would be the final leg into Cape Town. It was 3 days of hills, wind and really mixed emotions. I was looking forward to the end but at the same time I didn't want it to end. It was a week ago and I cant remember much about that section at all. I remember the campsites but the roads, where I stopped and what I thought along the way I just have no idea.

The plan was to get 40k from Cape Town and then cruise in the following day. I left Yezerfontein (68 k via GPS) and about 10km down the road the plan went out the window. I just turned a slight corner and there it was. Table Mountain. Something that I had thought about so often in the last 10 months was in sight. I thought that it cant be then it must be so I stopped on the side of the road. I checked the GPS and it was the only thing it could be. I changed the mp3 player to my favourite African bike tune and set off again. I smiled, laughed and very nearly cried. There were Bike Angels (no hands arms horizontal) fist pumps and random waving actions to cars passing by. It was the first time I let myself think that Ive got this, its done. My speed increased and i thought I have to get there. I have no choice i have to get to cape town today.

Quite a satisfying beer
I carried on to Cape Town into a bit of a wind. 70k via the GPS turned into 95K in reality but that didn't matter. The backpackers that was very close to table mountain and it had camping so I setup the tent then went for a beer - well a few. I sat there staring at this mountain and smiling until it got dark.

I had a bit of a sleep in, had breakfast then walked to the liquor store to buy some champagne to take with me down to the water front.

It was 10am so there wasn't a lot of people there and I found the fridge with the wine in it. There were 4 options. One was a rose and I did seriously think about it (I had meet the 3 french over far too much to Rose) but not today. So that left three.

I didn't recognise any of them so I just stood there in front of the fridge. Then I started smiling. I couldn't open the fridge. I didn't want to open the fridge. I just stood there in the middle of the store looking at wine in a fridge smiling, laughing and eventually crying. Each time I would think I had made a decision I would take a step forward to open the door but then stop. My hands would come up to my mouth and I would have to step back again. Opening the fridge door meant that it was done. I have done Ironman and some other tough events but standing in front of a fridge in a liquor store in Cape Town beat all of that. I had biked from London to Cape Town and all that was left was the celebration.

I'm not sure how long it was - 10/20 minutes I really don't know. The staff must have thought I was a little bit crazy but eventually I opened the fridge purchased a bottle of Simonsig and left. I went back then loaded up the bike with what was left of my gear and set off.

Yes I need a wash

I got a bit lost on the way to the waterfront but I ended up here. A bench with a view of Table Mountain. I had a passer by take a photo then sat down, opened the wine and I spoke with some Dutch tourists who congratulated me. I  made some phone calls then just sat back
and enjoyed the moment. Apparently drinking in public is illegal in South Africa so I was a bit lucky to not get arrested. Then again they probably looked at me and thought I smelled bad and didn't want the hassle.

I didn't and still really don't know what to think of it all. There was a sense of satisfaction and happiness that it was done but it wasn't over whelming. Maybe its the Kiwi way of being that we don't like to get over emotional or make too much fuss about what we achieve. In some ways it stupid. London to Cape Town on a bike is somewhat special - there are more people climb Everest each year than do it (thanks Hamish). I think that maybe I had spent all my emotions opening a fridge door

I always believed I would finish so the end wasn't really a surprise. It didn't matter how long it took or what i had to do I was always going to get to Cape Town. I really didn't have a choice. I gave up everything I knew to follow this dream and when you are in that situation there is no plan B. It was either I finish this or get taken home in a box and either way I would have been happy.

In the Why page I talked about the reasons for doing this and why I wanted to go beyond what I thought was possible to see what was on the other side. I can say that I have been there and it was a hell of a lot of fun.

Without thinking we put boundaries around what we can and cant do and most of the time that kind of thinking is totally wrong. In some way I would like to think I have proved that. I have lived the dream and to be honest it was an outrageous one but it was something that I needed to do and it has been the most extraordinary 10 months of my life.

There is quote that I often referred to on my travels when it was all falling apart and it happened far more often that I ever wrote about.

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal it is the courage to continue that counts"

I have had many success's, many failures but I have always continued and I am so happy that I did.

The end of my final ride in Africa

I have so many people to thank for making this journey possible. I have always managed to meet incredible people along the way who have helped me, inspired me and given me the desire to keep going. So.... 

Fiona - Without you it wouldn't have happened at all & I am eternally grateful.
Damon Jo Rose and Ella - That month at yours was invaluable and sorry you Ella had to give up her bedroom for me. Your Ethiopian rescue mission saved me from being stuck in that shithole.
Pierre, Margeaux and Vincent - If i hadn't meet you i have no doubt it would have taken 5 months to get to Athens. You taught me what travelling by bike was all about and I haven't meet a tougher & more determined group of people than you. Pastis and cheese soon!
CJ - Our nights at the wagagen made Addis a fun place to be. Cant wait until our paths cross again. Im still not sure if the person with the large eyes was a man or a woman. I can still see the eyes.
Sam and Flick - The most incredible 48 hours in Africa and congratulations on the Marathon de Sable.
Regis - There was a bar 5km from where we meet! so great to meet another idiot on a bike and its the beard that saved you in ethiopia. I hope to see you in Bretagne
Kaneli and Lucy - A great time in Malawi even though I couldnt really explain my journey.
Catie and Dee in lusaka - So much beer - 6 Nations Champions too.
Ben & Jade - Your RAAM story was are amazing, way to tough for me. Jade the first and only Kiwi on the trip - enjoy Ethiopia!
Keegan - I think it might be sooner rather than later for that beer.
Philip and Fran - It was so good to run into you guys. Thats one hell of a honeymoon!
The Praters - You have been there from start to finish and its been incredible. You have no idea how good it was to move that pin.
Hamish - The more prople climb everest kept me going in Ethiopia. Thanks for trying to make me a media whore but it turned out I wasnt attractive.
Cecile - My fench sister was always there. Baguette/Wine and cheese soon
Jenny - Cape Town isnt as bad as I made out. You need to get to Africa
Zara - Miss you and see you soon. I hope you are a little excited - if only you could read

Finally the people of Africa. Your hospitalty and ability to endure are just something else. There has always been a smiling face and a laugh along the way. It doesnt matter the circumstances you just get on and enjoy life. Its the most amazing place I have ever been and it has been and an incredible adventure.

To everyone else who has read my blog and followed my journey a massive thanks. Its been far greater than I ever imagined and having you take time to read it has been awesome. I'm just a guy on a bike living the dream and its been a lot of fun writing about my adventures. I think maybe I have one more to go.

Kyle

P.S. Just to be sure, everything that I write about has happened along the way. I do edit out the more extreme events because its not tasteful but ask me over a beer and I'm pretty sure I have enough stories left to surpise you.

Keetmanshoop - Vioolsdrift - 4 Days 375km

Keetmanshoop, Seeheim, Fish River Canyon, Aussenkehr, Violsdrift

I arrived in Windhoek not exactly sure what to expect. It was very clean, organised and although its a nice place it was somewhat bland. I won a pub quiz at the hostel and did meet some interesting people so it was a good time but with South Africa so close I was anxious to get going again.

Downtown Windhoek

I got the bike fixed and she arrived again looking brand new. It nice to have her clean and beautiful again but it attracts more attention from the locals.

I got the bus down to Keetmanshoop and made the short ride to Seeheim, a hotel in the middle of nowhere. It was very nice but not so friendly. All the owner asked me was why I didn't speak Afrikaans. I said I'm from New Zealand and that was acceptable but there wasn't much after that.

They had a Gemsbok in the grounds so it was good to see one up close. I have seen them on a dinner plate a few times as well and they do taste as good as they look.

Then it was onto Fish River Canyon. I arrived late in the afternoon and I wasn't really sure if I wanted to bike the extra 10k each way to see it. Philip and Fran were there too so we had a beer and they convinced me to ride to the canyon in the morning. I didn't know what to expect but it was incredible. I sat for an hour watching the sun come up and then began what would be a long day to Aussenkehr.

A break in the shade

The late start after visiting Fish River Canyon meant that I would be biking well into the afternoon to get to Aussenkehr. Normally this wouldn't be a problem but like every day since Walvis Bay there was a strong headwind and by late in the afternoon it was getting ridiculous.

Downwind the bike acts like a sail but into the wind its really hard work. I spent 3 hours doing 8km/hour and eventually I just stopped looking at the speed. The wind is one of the factors that you cant change but after a few days into the wind it became really frustrating. Cape Town was so close and all I wanted was a nice easy week, wind at my back and sunshine to get there. I knew that this wasn't going to happen and like the rest of Africa getting to Cape Town wasn't going to be easy.
 

The good thing was the scenery was stunning. There were animals, long straights, climbs, twisty descents, sections of desert and there was virtually no one on the road. This 10 hour/150km day was the best ride I had in Namibia. When I was getting close to Aussenkehr the sun was going down with the mountains on one side, the desert on the other. It was a really tough day but near the end there was no place I would rather have been or nothing I would rather have been doing than being out there on the bike.

They take their Jager seriously in Namibia

The final day in Namibia was another windy affair but it was a short day to get to the border and into South Africa and the beginning of the end.

So Namibia. I totally under estimated how difficult it would be. I arrived thinking that it would be flat, fast and easy but it was anything but. The roads, heat, wind, desert, the distance between towns and its size made it one of the toughest countries I have gone through. Its not the kind of place where you turn up at the airport with a bike and think you can just cruise around the country.

Namibia is incredibly beautiful and from North to South the people were so friendly and helpful. The camping is great, the food good, there are animals everywhere and I got to live the dream and see Elephants in the wild. The great thing about it was that as a country it works. Its safe, organised, clean, and so very easy to be a tourist there. Its no more challenging than a holiday in New Zealand.

Sorry Kenya but you have been moved to Number 2. Namibia is my favourite country in Africa.

Swakopmund to Windhoek - 9 Days 605km

Walvis Bay, Desert, Desert, Solitaire, Maltahohe, Marential, Windhoeck

I though the short trip from Swakop to Walvis bay was always going to be a non event and that is how it turned out. It did give me a chance to test out the new MP3 player and move the legs again after a long break (4 days) in Swakop.

The lingering thought during the ride was what was coming next. I knew that I was now going to be entering the desert and this time it would be on dirt roads. In my experience the worst place to ride a bike is in the desert. The 4 things that determine how difficult a ride will be were all against me. The road was unsealed, it was going to be hot, there would be wind and there were no services (water or food) along the way. All this meant I knew I moving towards something that would be tough exactly how tough I wasn't sure.

The easy riding is about to end

At the beginning of the National Park. After this there would be nothing for a while.

Welcome to the desert

It is as hot as it looks

There is some shade over there

By this time in the journey I thought I had this cycling thing sorted, even in the desert. My experience from Sudan meant that I knew that it would be very hot, there would be little to see and I would need a massive amount of water. I loaded up with 10L and departed Walvis bay thinking that it would take 2 days at the most to cover the 205km from Walvis Bay to Solitaire, the next town.

That was my thinking but the desert had other ideas. It was hot, in the early 40's but because there is no shade there is nowhere to hide. The sun seemed to bounce off the rocks and sand on the side of the road to make it even hotter. Then there was the road. I had talked with people beforehand and they had said it was a good gravel road. Good in the car and good on a bike are two different things and it wasn't good on the bike. Patches of the road were smooth and fast while others were sandy and rough. The road was worse than the other dirt roads I had encountered on my travels, there simply wasn't a good lane that I could bike along. At times I was doing 6km/hour pushing through what was mostly sand.

On top of all this there was the elevation. The first 100km took me from sea level up to 1200m. It was over 100km but there was a lot of up/down and on the rough roads in the heat it was tough.

I biked for seven and a half hours and had done a little over 100k. I was starting to feel the affects at this stage so I stopped for some noodles and planned on going through the night to the nearest rest camp around 70km away. The mind was willing but after getting back on and travelling 200m cramp set in. Like every other time I get cramp it started in my right groin. I get a bit of a warning (some moderate cramp) and then I can usually carry on for a while but another 400m up the road I cramped up again. I fell off the bike and rolled around the road trying to make it stop. My day was done.

I have learned that there is very little margin for error in the desert. If you fell hungry or thirsty under normal conditions you have nearly an hour before it starts to become a problem. In the desert you have around 15 minutes before the hunger and thirst can reduce you to a wreck on the side of the road.

I moved off the road to setup camp and realised I had reached the 1300km mark. I took this photo and made sure that I got my fingers around the right way for 13. Instead I got it totally wrong. I was a little tired.

I setup the tent, cramping in most leg muscles at one time or another then watched the sun go down.

The desert is a terrible place to ride a bike but it makes for amazing sunsets. Sitting in the desert watching the sun go down while I tried not to move was really quite special. It was quiet, still, desolate and so very beautiful. I had suffered to get to where I was and it was just nice to sit and enjoy the place. I also realised for the first time that the stars were the same now I was in the Southern Hemisphere (I had been there for a while). So it was nice to see the Southern Cross and think of home.

I didn't sleep well (cramp) but the main problem was that I was low on water. I was down to 1.5L and it meant I would have to rely on charity to get enough water to get the rest of the way.

The top of the pass

I got lucky early on the second day, the men grading the roads had a campsite near by so I got to fill up the water bottles from their tank and I knew I would have enough water for the rest of the day.

I though it would be a reasonably easy 65k to the rest camp but this is the desert. It was hot again, I now had a head wind and there was the Kuiseb pass to get through. This was a long downhill, across a bridge then a very steep uphill.

I arrived after 6 more hours in the sun and then fell down at the entrance to the camp site. I hid in the shade for a while before beginning to think about getting off the round and riding the 8km to get to the site itself. Luckily the owner Christiaan appeared so I got a lift in his bakkie long what was a pretty rough track.

I did wonder why the camp site was 8km from the road but when I got there I totally understood. The view was incredible

I had the day off, slept in the shade and then had a great dinner with Christiaan and his family then it was back on the road.

The Tropic of Capricorn. I had to look up exactly what this was later.

The town of Solitaire - Yes that is all there is.

After 3 days tough riding I arrived at Solitare. I was dirty (not unusual), tired, disheartened and in need of a beer. After so long on the bike I thought I would be able to get through the desert without any problems but it was far tougher than I thought.

During that 3 days it was the first time in months that I was questioning what I was doing here and I had doubts at times if I could get to Solitare on the bike. It was a physical and emotional roller coaster which I wasn't expecting. Sometimes I felt great and thought it was fun and other times I wanted to sit by the side of the road and cry. Still I got there in the end.

In Solitare I had some beer and worked on a plan.
I needed to find better dirt roads and ideally somewhere a little cooler. I had been planning to go to Sesriem but after talking with the locals I found out the road was very sandy so that was out. The only alternative was to head to Maltahohe 170km away. From there I could either get back on the tar road or head further South on the dirt.
I had a day off and spent most of the day sitting in a restaurant watching tourists and the odd local arrive at the petrol station. It made for interesting viewing watching and listening to tourist dressed in safari outfits (beige trousers and shirts with pockets everywhere) complaining about the heat. Late in the day something very unexpected happened Two other cyclists arrived!

They looked as tired as I felt the day before so I gave them a while to eat and drink before I went over. Philip and Fran http://detouring.org had been following much the same route through Africa as I had taken but they started from China instead of London. It was a great relief to find that they found the ride from Walvis Bay as tough as I had and we had dinner and shared stories of the journey through Africa.

The next day it was back on what was promised to be a better road and to hope to Maltahohe.

There was some stunning scenery, some monkeys and a long day to get there just before dark. There was a tailwind (for the last time) so I managed to cover the 170k in the day. I dropped the bike at a hostel then went into town looking for food.

I went to a take aways and there were people sitting behind the counter drinking beers. I ate something then joined them. Namibia was always really friendly and I found it was culturally very similar to New Zealand. I ended up drinking beer then Brandy and Coke (the national drink of Namibia and South Africa)  for most of the evening. We talked rugby, cricket, farming and about New Zealand. It was just like being in a small town on the West Coast and it was a really great way to end what had been a rough section of the journey.

Breakfast and another day off

So I recovered from the night before and set about seeing if I could get the bike fixed. 5 of the 6 screws holding the small sprocket (Granny Gear) had fallen out on the rough roads so I needed to get that sorted. There was no bike shop in town so I would need to get to Windhoek to get it fixed. Not ideal but there was not much I could do.

I was eating dinner at the only pub in town when Philip and Fran appeared. This lead to a number of beers, a lot of laughs and they eventually kicked is out late in the evening. It made for a rough ride the next day to Mariental but was well worth it. On the way a gear cable snapped with 30k to go so I was pushing a very large gear for the final part of the ride.

In Mariental it was a bus to Windhoek and to what I had been told was one of the best cities in Africa.