Chankhanga - Livingstone 1175km 15 Days

Chankhanga, Katete, Petauke, Nyimba, Rio Luangwa, Chimusanya, Chongwe, Lusaka, Katue, Monze, Pemba, Kalomo, Livingston

I arrived in Zambia anxious to push on and get to Cape Town and as I already talked about it didn't work out well. The break in Katete was exactly what I needed and I was looking forward to getting back on the road.   

I moved onto Petauke where I ran in to the WHO doing HIV testing and had one of the most moving experiences of my time in Africa. I was an emotionally intense few days but it all helped to put things into perspective.

The Luangwa river bridge in the rain


I have talked to a few people who are on long journeys through Africa about what happened over those days and everyone experiences pretty much the same thing. There is a point where it all falls apart and you just need a break. Cyclists, people on motorbikes, people driving cars and volunteer's in these countries all say the same thing. Every so often need a little timeout from Africa to re-set the mind and then go back to what they were doing happy again. Living the dream isn't easy and having it all fall apart is just something that comes along with it. 

Sometimes (most of the time) the places I stay in are a little rough. This is mostly because they are cheap but often its because there is no where else. In Katete it was no different. The room was fine but there was a large gap under the door so I had a bit of a rodent issue. It wasn't the first time I had seen rats but it was the first time I was woken up by one crawling over me. I often sleep in my clothes in the less desireable places so it wasn't a big deal. I did have a search of the room afterwards and found two in different corners of the room. Rats are quite fast so there wasn't much I could do to get them out but they didn't wake me again.

There were a lot of hills on the way to Lusaka - nothing over an hour climb but it was a constant up and down. It hot/humid and raining too so it was a good challenge. I also got stung by a something on my left arm just above the elbow. I am a little allergic so there were a couple of days where I couldn't fell where my elbow was.

There was a lot of large trucks on the road that come up from South Africa. Almost all of them gave me lots of room on the road - Its mostly the cars that get too close. This guy crashed about an hour before I arrived. The windscreen was broken where the driver had hit his head but he was fine.

One of the strangest things about Zambia was this. People cutting grass on the side of the road. These were busy everywhere cutting down metre high grass on the roadsides. They use a machete that has been bent so its similar to a golf club. It looked to be incredibly tough work.
 

I arrived in Luaska felling pretty good but a little tired. I had a great time at the backpackers there with people from all over the world. There were Pilots, Doctors, Park Rangers and people from South Africa who do business in Zambia. Everyone was there for a propose not just on holiday so it was really good to hear their stories and experiences of Zambia and Africa.

The 11000k mark in Pemba. This time I celebrated with a few cold Mosi's. 
Not long after I chased a man out of the bar with a pool cue for drinking my beer. Over time you develop a 5 second memory about these things. You have an argument with someone or chase them with a weapon and and when its done you just forget that it happened.

There was some hot days on the way South. African's often use umbrellas to keep out of the sun

The ride South from Lusaka to Livingstone was pretty uneventful. There is lots of farmland, corn and some long flat sections. I had the wind behind me for a lot of the way so it was a good 5 days ride and I was pretty excited about getting to Livingstone and seeing Victoria falls and it did not disappoint.

Double Rainbow!

The size and noise of the falls is incredible and it is the rainy season so the water level is quite high. The spray that comes means it raining heavily on you most of the time which creates the rainbows. Its an amazing place.

To finish off the visit to the falls I went on a river cruise on the Zambezi with 4 Zambian ladies who live in the Copper Belt. They had some interesting stories about what being a White Zambian was like. They couldn't get passports even though they were born in Zambia and we talked about what goes on in the mining district of the Copper belt. The stories included forced labour camps and people being sent in shipping containers from China to Zambia to work in the mines. What really happens in Africa is often very surprising.

Hippos lounging around
 

Gin and Tonic

Sunset on the Zambeizi


So after a rough start Zambia turned out pretty well. I have been shocked, laughed, cried and meet some incredible people along the way. I also meet another Kiwi for the first time in  Africa! Its rained a lot,had been hot, and I had some challenging rides but its was a really good time. The scenery was good, Victoria Falls amazing and the locals have been very friendly.

Zambia had a little bit of everything that Africa has to offer and although its a bit expensive (for Africa) it's been great.

The Caprivi Strip and Namibia is up next. It will be hot, spectacular and there should be wild Elephants along the way. Can't wait!